Valhalla's Things: Ink Lightfastness Tests 2026
Tags: madeof:atoms, topic:inks
Note
This post will be updated in the next weeks with the test results as
they become available.
Note
Most of the images in this post have no real alt-text: they are all
scans of the test sheet at various stages through the test, and the
results visible on them are described in detail at the end of the
post.
- suitable for framed calligraphy, i.e. it looks the same after 3 months of direct sun exposure;
- suitable for complaining about the way your neighbours deal with the trash, i.e. still readable after 3 months of exposure;
- not suitable for either, i.e. has faded significantly in the same time.
The next step, already in January, was mentioning in a fountain-pen
enthusiasts forum that I planned such a test, and asking if people were
interested in having me buy a few samples of more inks when I was
buying my next pen.
The word enthusiasts is probably a hint of the reason why soon
afterwards I received a package with the pen I had planned to buy, its
converter, and a couple dozens ink samples.
And then a couple envelopes with additional samples of inks that weren t
available on the shops, from said enthusiasts.
Added to the inks I already had acquired since the last lightfastness
test, it meant that they couldn t all fit in one single page, and thus I
had some room to add some inks I had already tested: some were requests,
and for others I tried to select ones that felt relevant.
Since I m changing the test setup, I ve decided I should probably keep
doing this until I ve tested again all of the inks I still have
available.
For the paper, I ve used A4 sheets of Clairefontaine Dessin Croquis
160 g/m ,
one of my staples that I m sure I will have available in the next years,
printed with a dot pattern with a laser printer, using this pdf.
And as for the pen I ve used a fresh Brause n 361 nib: loading a fountain pen
with all of these inks wouldn t be a reasonable effort, and the 361 is
one of the writing implements I use most anyway. I also used a glass pen
to fill a couple of squares on the paper with more ink.
One side of each sheet was then covered with a strip of 300 g/m black
paper (also from Clairefontaine), kept in place with three dots of
non-permanent two sided tape, put in the frame and set out in the sun on
the morning of 2026-03-20, the day of the spring equinox.
While I was filling the sheet for the lightfastness tests, I decided to
also prepare a second set of sheet, for a liquid resistance drop test.
On each line, beside the name of the ink, I added five sets of crossing
parallel lines, and let everything dry for a few days.
Then I used a syringe to put a drop of a liquid on each set of lines,
waited for it to be absorbed into the paper and to dry, at least
overnight, but sometimes also for a day or two (life happened), and then
looked at the results and did the next test.
The first liquid was water, with the usual wild difference between
washable and permanent inks, and all of the intermediate possibilities.
The second liquid was isopropyl alcohol, and I was surprised to see
that, with very few exceptions, most inks didn t change at all. I
wonder whether that s related to the fact that instead of forming a drop
it was absorbed almost immediately into the paper, and dried in a very
short time.
The third liquid was hydrogen peroxide: beside the individual results I
noticed that its column yellowed visibly; I wonder whether that means
that the paper I used has optical brighteners, and it will also yellow
under the sun: that wouldn t be ideal, but it would also be a surprise,
for paper that is acid free and sold for arts.
The fourth liquid was citric acid, by mixing a bit less than a teaspoon
of citric acid granules in just enough very warm water (heated to 70 C,
i.e. the lowest temperature available on my kettle) to dissolve most of
the acid. I forgot that I had some old PH strips until one hour after
I ve put the drop on the paper, and I don t know whether something had
changed, but when I did remember about them it showed a deep red between
1 and 2. I don t think I can trust those strips too much, however.
This backfired badly: the drop of citric acid never dried out, but
formed a sticky paste that prevented me from scanning the results,
and I m not sure whether I ll do the last test, which was supposed to be
household bleach.
Luckily I had scanned the partial results, and they are shown here.
After one full day with plenty of sun, nothing really had changed,
except possibly for a vague hint that the Herbin Bleu Myosotis may have
have been a bit lighter than it started, but it may also have been a
suggestion.
After three days, however, some results started to show, with the most
fugitive inks starting to be visibly changed, becoming either paler or
in some case duller.
And the full week showed more of that, with a few more inks starting to
show visible change.
After two weeks the paper had significantly yellowed, something I did
not expect from drawing paper (and which means that I will probably use
a different paper when making similar tests in the future).
As for the inks, there were a couple more inks with visible changes, but
mostly it was more of the same as seen in the previous week.
Three weeks started to show changes in the black and most irongall inks, and of course more changes in the even less resistant inks.
Week four saw a bit more clouds and rain than the first few weeks, and
there weren t big changes, but mostly more of what had already started
to happen earlier.
A month didn t change much compared to the four weeks, but I did the
scans for completeness, and from now on I m going to update monthly.
These are the inks I ve tested, and here I ll add notes on the results, as soon as they will be available, keeping this section updated. When nothing is mentioned, it means that there were no changes, either under the light or under the various liquids.
- Lamy Sepia
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After one week it started to be just slightly paler, more so after three weeks.
- Sheaffer Skrip Red
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After one week it started to be just slightly paler, more so after three weeks.
- Waterman Audacious Red
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After three days it started to be just slightly paler, after a week visibly so. After four weeks it was very pale.
- Waterman Harmonious Green
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot; the hydrogen peroxide drop looks a bit lighter than the one with just water. After one week it started to be just slightly paler, more so after three weeks. After four weeks it was very pale.
- Waterman Mysterious Blue
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot; the hydrogen peroxide drop is significantly lighter and tends towards green. After two weeks it started to be just slightly paler, after three weeks it was more gray. After four weeks it was very pale.
- Waterman Serenity Blue
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot; the hydrogen peroxide drop is almost completely bleached to a light yellow. After one week it started to be a bit duller. After four weeks it was paler and duller.
- Visconti Blue
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After one week it was visibly duller, looking darker than the original. After three weeks it was duller, and lighter. After a month it was just a pale gray.
- Montblanc Royal Blue
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot; the hydrogen peroxide drop is almost completely bleached to a light yellow. After one week it started to be just slightly duller, more so after two weeks. After three weeks it was also paler. After a month it was just a pale gray.
- Montblanc Mystery Black
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After three weeks it started to be a bit paler.
- Aurora Nero
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After three weeks it started to be a bit more brown.
- Online Duft Blueberry
- Not resistant to water, the drop looks very washed out, although a hint of the original shape can be guessed; the hydrogen peroxide drop is almost completely bleached to a light yellow. After one week it was visibly paler and duller. After three weeks significantly so. After a month it was a pale grey.
- Diamine Forever Ink - Smoky Mauve
- After a month it looked a bit more purple.
- Diamine Forever Ink - Honey Pot
- .
- Diamine Forever Ink - Coral Blaze
- .
- Diamine Forever Ink - Red Ochre
- .
- Diamine Graphite
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot.
- Diamine Rustic Brown
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After three weeks it started to be very slightely paler.
- Diamine China Blue
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot; the hydrogen peroxide drop is almost completely bleached to a light yellow. After three weeks it started to be paler and duller.
- Diamine Inkvent Purple Edition - Glacier
- Not resistant to water, there is a drop of uniform colour, but it maintains a somewhat recognisable shade of the original shape. After three weeks it started to be lighter.
- Fountainfeder STEVE
- Not resistant to water, there is a drop of uniform colour, but it maintains a somewhat recognisable shade of the original shape. After two weeks the base colour had changed to a pink rather than purple.
- Pilot Iroshizuku Syo Ro
- Not resistant to water, there is a drop of uniform colour, but it maintains a somewhat recognisable shade of the original shape. After four weeks it was very slightely paler.
- Pilot Iroshizuku Shin-Kai
- Not resistant to water, there is a drop of uniform colour, but it maintains a somewhat recognisable shade of the original shape. After two weeks it had become lighter and more purple. After four weeks it was a purple gray.
- Rohrer & Klingner IG Ebony
- Not resistant to water, there is a drop of uniform colour, but it maintains a recognisable shade of the original shape; under hydrogen peroxide the shade is significantly lighter. After four weeks it was a bit lighter
- KWZ IG Orange
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot; the hydrogen peroxide drop is significantly bleached to a light orange.
- Kallipos.de Schwarze Eisengallus-Tinte
- Water stains the paper, leaving however the original shape quite visible; is it almost completely bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three weeks it started to be very slightely lighter.
- Kallipos.de Blaue Eisengallus-Tinte
- Water stains the paper, leaving however the original shape quite visible; is it almost completely bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After two weeks it had started to become lighter and more gray.
- Rohrer & Klingner IG Salix
- Water stains the paper, leaving however the original shape quite visible; is it almost completely bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After two weeks it had become lighter and significantly more gray. After a month it was a yellowish gray.
- Rohrer & Klingner IG Scabiosa
- Water stains the paper with a significant purple spot, leaving however the original shape quite visible; is is a bit bleached by hydrogen peroxide, but still quite readable.
- Pelikan Edelstein Tanzanite
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot, but there is a visible trace of the original shape. After three weeks it started to be slightly paler.
- Montblanc Burgundy Red
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot, with just a hint of the original shape; slightly bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three weeks it started to be paler.
- Cifra inchiostro finissimo verde alla lavanda
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot; quite bleached to a light yellowish green by hydrogen peroxide. After one week it was visibly paler. After a month it was a still readable pale trace.
- Sennelier Abstract acrylic ink 917 purple
- .
- The Feather Pen Ink
- .
- Eloquentia Inchiostro nero
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Blue
- .
- DeAtramentis Document BlueGrey
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Brown
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Fuchsia
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Grau
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Green Grey
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Light Grey
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Moosgr n
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Orange
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Purpurviolett
- .
- DeAtramentis Document Urban Sienna
- .
- KWZ Sheen Machine
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot; the hydrogen peroxide bleached away the red sheen. This was one of the only two inks to react to isopropyl alcohol, which caused a pale cyan halo around the lines. After three days it was still perfectly readable, but had visibly lost some red sheen, after one week the red had completely gone and it looked very dark blue (but still shiny)
- KWZ Walk over Vistula
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After four weeks it looked a bit darker and duller.
- KWZ Warsaw Dreaming
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After a month it started to be a bit lighter.
- Octopus Neon Violett
- Water very lightly stains the paper, leaving however the original shape quite visible. The other ink that reacted to isopropyl alcohol, with a pale purple halo around the lines. After two weeks it was paler, more pink.
- Octopus Write & Draw Elephant Black
- .
- Platinum blue black
- Water stains the paper, leaving however the original shape quite visible; it is significantly bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three weeks it started to become gray.
- Pelikan 4001 Brillant-Schwarz
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot. After three weeks it was a bit more brown than black, after a month noticeably so.
- Pelikan 4001 Blau-Schwarz
- Water stains the paper, leaving however the original shape quite visible; it is significantly bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three weeks it started to become gray.
- Pelikan 4001 K nigsblau
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot, with just a hint of the original shape; significantly bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three days it had started to be slightly paler. After three weeks it was significantly desaturated.
- Herbin Bleu Myosotis
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform pink spot, significantly bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three days it was already visibly paler, after one week it was a pale grey. After a month it was still somehow readable, but as a trace.
- Faber Castell Royal Blue
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot, with just a hint of the original shape; significantly bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three days it was slightly duller, after two weeks definitely so. After a month it was also quite paler.
- Koh-I-Noor Fountain pen ink blue
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot, with just a hint of the original shape; significantly bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three days it had started to be slightly paler, more so after one week when it had also turned grey. After four weeks it was very pale.
- Koh-I-Noor Document Ink Blue
- .
- Koh-I-Noor Document Ink Black
- Water leaves a very light stain, but the original shape doesn t look changed.
- DeAtramentis Document Black
- .
- Waterman Intense Black
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot, with a trace of the original shape still visible; very lightly bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three weeks it started to look a bit more brown, noticeably so after a month.
- Herbin Perle Noir
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot, with a trace of the original shape still visible. After three weeks it started to look a bit more brown, noticeably so after a month.
- Parker Quink black
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot.
- Platinum Carbon black
- .
- Rohrer & Klingner Documentus Black
- .
- Sailor Pigment Kiwaguro
- .
- Platinum Dyestuff Red
- Not resistant to water, the drop becomes an uniform colour spot; very lightly bleached by hydrogen peroxide. After three weeks it was a bit paler.
- Noodler s Eternal Polar Blue
- .
After cartridge pleating and honeycombing, I was still somewhat in the
mood for that kind of fabric manipulation, and directing my internet
searches in that vague direction, and I stumbled on this:
With the pieces being rectangles the width of the fabric, I was able to
have at least one side of selvedge on all seams, and took advantage of it
by finishing the seams by simply folding the allowances to one sides so
that the selvedge was on top, and hemstitching them down as I would have
done with a folded edge when felling.
Also, at first I wanted to make the smocking in white on white, but then
I thought about a few hanks of electric blue floss I had in my stash,
and decided to just go with it.
The initial seams were quickly made, then I started the smocking at the
neck, and at that time the project went on hold while I got ready to go
to DebConf. Then I came back and took some time to get back into a
sewing mood, but finally the smocking on the next was finished, and I
could go on with the main sewing, which, as I expected, went decently
fast for a handsewing project.
While doing the diagonal smocking on the collar I counted the stitches
to make each side the same length, which didn t completely work because
the gathers weren t that regular to start with, and started each line
from the two front opening going towards the center back, leaving a
triangle with a different size right in the middle. I think overall it
worked well enough.
Then there were a few more interruptions, but at last it was ready! just
as the weather turned cold-ish and puffy shirts were no longer in
season, but it will be there for me next spring.
I did manage to wear it a few times and I have to say that the neck
shaping is quite comfortable indeed: it doesn t pull in odd ways like
the classical historically accurate pirate shirt sometimes does, and the
heavy gathering at the neck makes it feel padded and soft.
I m not as happy with the cuffs: the way I did them with just
honeycombing means that they don t need a closure, and after washing and
a bit of steaming they lie nicely, but then they tend to relax in a
wider shape. The next time I think I ll leave a slit in the sleeves,
possibly make a different type of smocking (depending on whether I have
enough fabric) and then line them like the neck so that they are stable.
Because, yes, I think that there will be another time: I have a few more
project before that, and I want to spend maybe another year working from
my stash, but then I think I ll buy some soft linen and make at least
another one, maybe with white-on-white smocking so that it will be
easier to match with different garments.
After cartridge pleating, the next fabric manipulation technique I
wanted to try was smocking, of the honeycombing variety, on a shirt.
My current go-to pattern for shirts is the
In my stash I had a cut of purple-blue hopefully cotton [#cotton] I had
bought for a cheap price and used for my first attempt at an
Of course I wanted some honeycombing on the front, but I was afraid that
the slit in the middle of it would interfere with the honeycombing and
gape, so I decided to have the shirt open in an horizontal line at the
yoke.
I added instructions
I also used a row of honeycombing on the back and two on the upper part
of the sleeves, instead of the gathering, and of course some rows to
gather the cuffs.
The honeycombing on the back was a bit too far away from the edge, so
it s a bit of an odd combination of honeycombing and pleating that I
don t hate, but don t love either. It s on the back, so I don t mind. On
the sleeves I ve done the honeycombing closer to the edge and I ve
decided to sew the sleeve as if it was a cartridge pleated sleeve, and
that worked better.
Because circumstances are still making access to my sewing machine
more of a hassle than I d want it to be, this was completely sewn by
hand, and at a bit more than a month I have to admit that near the end
it felt like it had been taken forever. I m not sure whether it was the
actual sewing being slow, some interruptions that happened when I had
little time to work on it, or the fact that I ve just gone through a
time when my brain kept throwing new projects at me, and I kept thinking
of how to make those. Thanks brain.
Even when on a hurry to finish it, however, it was still enjoyable
sewing, and I think I ll want to do more honeycombing in the future.
Anyway, it s done! And it s going straight into my daily garment
rotation, because the weather is getting hot, and that means it s
definitely shirt time.
University of Nairobi.
Our group at the conference.
View of Nairobi's skyline from the open area on the fifth floor.
A library in Mahatma Gandhi wing of the University of Nairobi.
One of the conference halls where talks took place.
One of the lunch meals served during the conference.
Minibus which took us from the university to Bao Box restaurant.
This minibus in the picture gave a sense of a real matatu.

I have been working on the rather massive Apparmor bug
What is Ubuntu Touch? (And what does sunweaver have to do with it?)
With Ubuntu Touch, the UBports Foundation offers a truly unique mobile experience - a viable alternative to Android and iOS. The UBports community provides a free and open-source GNU/Linux-based mobile operating system. One that can be installed and used today.
Currently, there is an intensive effort going on lifting Ubuntu Touch from its current Ubuntu 16.04 base up to an Ubuntu 20.04 base. (And very soon after that to an Ubuntu 22.04 base...).
With the Ubuntu Touch 20.04 base the progress bar is already at (I'd say) 89%, but we recently got hit by a drawback.
I am currently involved in the Ubuntu Touch core development team at UBports and on medium short notice our current ARM64 server sponsor has announced to decommission our ARM64 build server that currently powers all the ARM64 and armhf CI builds.
Call for Hardware Sponsoring
So, the UBports core development team is currently desperately looking for a sponsor (or a few sponsors) who can provide us with (datacenter-hosted) ARM-based CPU power. It is important, that also 32-bit ARM builds are possible with the hardware provided.
For testing, I recently ordered a HoneyComb LX2 (by SolidRun) as a possible solution (multi-node in the end), but the board arrived in a non-usable state, it seems. So this also didn't work out as easy as expected.
As the former provider/sponsor is about to pull the plug, this call for help is kind of urgent.
Please get in touch if you can help us out or know people who can.
Thanks!!!




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