Valhalla's Things: Historically Inaccurate Hemd
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing
After cartridge pleating and honeycombing, I was still somewhat in the
mood for that kind of fabric manipulation, and directing my internet
searches in that vague direction, and I stumbled on this:
https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/06/26/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-hemd-chemise/
Now, do I want to ever make myself a 16th century German costume,
especially a kampfrau one? No! I m from lake Como! Those are the
enemies who come down the Alps pillaging and bringing the Black Death
with them!
Although I have to admit that at times during my day job I have found the
idea of leaving everything to go march with the J germonsters
attractive. You know, the exciting prospective of long days of march
spent knitting sturdy socks, punctuated by the excitement of settling
down in camp and having a chance of doing lots of laundry. Or something.
Sometimes being a programmer will make you think odd things.
Anyway, going back to the topic, no, I didn t need an historically
accurate hemd. But I did need a couple more shirts for daily wear, I did
want to try my hand at smocking, and this looked nice, and I was
intrigued by the way the shaping of the neck and shoulder worked, and
wondered how comfortable it would be.
And so, it had to be done.
I didn t have any suitable linen, but I did have quite a bit of cotton
voile, and since I wasn t aiming at historical accuracy it looked like a
good option for something where a lot of fabric had to go in a small
space.
At first I considered making it with a bit less fabric than the one in
the blog, but then the voile was quite thin, so I kept the original
measurement as is, only adapting the sleeve / sides seams to my size.
With the pieces being rectangles the width of the fabric, I was able to
have at least one side of selvedge on all seams, and took advantage of it
by finishing the seams by simply folding the allowances to one sides so
that the selvedge was on top, and hemstitching them down as I would have
done with a folded edge when felling.
Also, at first I wanted to make the smocking in white on white, but then
I thought about a few hanks of electric blue floss I had in my stash,
and decided to just go with it.
The initial seams were quickly made, then I started the smocking at the
neck, and at that time the project went on hold while I got ready to go
to DebConf. Then I came back and took some time to get back into a
sewing mood, but finally the smocking on the next was finished, and I
could go on with the main sewing, which, as I expected, went decently
fast for a handsewing project.
While doing the diagonal smocking on the collar I counted the stitches
to make each side the same length, which didn t completely work because
the gathers weren t that regular to start with, and started each line
from the two front opening going towards the center back, leaving a
triangle with a different size right in the middle. I think overall it
worked well enough.
Then there were a few more interruptions, but at last it was ready! just
as the weather turned cold-ish and puffy shirts were no longer in
season, but it will be there for me next spring.
I did manage to wear it a few times and I have to say that the neck
shaping is quite comfortable indeed: it doesn t pull in odd ways like
the classical historically accurate pirate shirt sometimes does, and the
heavy gathering at the neck makes it feel padded and soft.
I m not as happy with the cuffs: the way I did them with just
honeycombing means that they don t need a closure, and after washing and
a bit of steaming they lie nicely, but then they tend to relax in a
wider shape. The next time I think I ll leave a slit in the sleeves,
possibly make a different type of smocking (depending on whether I have
enough fabric) and then line them like the neck so that they are stable.
Because, yes, I think that there will be another time: I have a few more
project before that, and I want to spend maybe another year working from
my stash, but then I think I ll buy some soft linen and make at least
another one, maybe with white-on-white smocking so that it will be
easier to match with different garments.
If you read the above title, you might wonder how the switch to wayland (yes, the
[1]: If you try to run
About 95% of my Debian contributions this month were
This week, some of the
gst-fallbacksrc
Carl's box's needs lead to looking at













The discovery of a backdoor in XZ Utils in the spring of 2024 shocked the open source community, raising critical questions about software supply chain security. This post explores whether better Debian packaging practices could have detected this threat, offering a guide to auditing packages and suggesting future improvements.
The XZ backdoor in versions 5.6.0/5.6.1 made its way briefly into many major Linux distributions such as Debian and Fedora, but luckily didn t reach that many actual users, as the backdoored releases were quickly removed thanks to the heroic diligence of
If the changes are extensive, and you want to use a LLM to help spot potential security issues, generate the report of both the upstream and Debian packaging differences in Markdown with:
To compare changes across the new and old upstream tarball, one would need to compare commits afba662b New upstream version 5.8.0 and fa1e8796 New upstream version 5.8.1 by running
With all the above tips you can now go and try to audit your own favorite package in Debian and see if it is identical with upstream, and if not, how it differs.
There is only one tiny thing that maybe a very experienced Autotools user could potentially have noticed: the
Like each month, have a look at the work funded by
A new version 0.3.5 of the
