All aboard the Choo Choo train!
As some of you know, we are planning our trip on the
Trans-Siberian (well, Trans-Mongolian to be exact) railway, at the
moment. Given the wall of text my
post about Svalbard turned out
to be, I am trying to split early and often.
The plan
Our three-week itinerary is pretty much fixed, by now:
- Fly to Moscow, tour the city
- Take the train to Novosibirsk, tour
the city and industrial area (if anyone knows of good photo
opportunities, do let me know! Novosibirsk is supposedly incredible
if you know where to look... and I don't...)
- Take the train to Irkutsk, continue to Listvyanka
near Lake
Baikal, scuba dive, maybe take train around Lake Baikal just
because
- Take the train to Ulan Bator, tour
Mongolia for five days
- Take the train to Beijing, visit usual places, have chinese candy
- Take the train to Shanghai, marvel at skyline at night, visit
one of the water cities nearby
- Fly back home
Visa issues
Not wanting to just book any random package with any random
travel agent, we are picking and mixing our own, as usual. Given
visa requirements, language barriers and things that are plain
weird, it's been an interesting ride before we even pack our bags a
month or two from now.
Being European, visas are something that do not concern us a
lot, normally. I am starting to realize how incredibly lucky we
are... barring India, we never needed to do much to be allowed to
enter any foreign country.
Not so on this trip...
While Mongolia has rather lax, or let's just say reasonable,
terms, China and Russia are different.
To get a visa for Russia, you need:
- Passport, valid for at least six months after your planned
departure
- Photo, not older than six months
- Personal invitation (you simply buy those from agencies within
Russia)
- Voucher from an accredited travel agency
- Detailed itinerary
- Proof of health insurance for exact time of stay, i.e.
dates of entry and departure; make it too long and you may have
trouble getting your visa
- Copy of one of the following:
- Current pay slip
- Bank statement
- Registration of real estate
- Registration of company in your name
For China, you need to provide a night-to-night itinerary of
hotel stays. This may be a remnant of Mao's philosophy of
restricting free movement of the population within China, I don't
know. On the plus side, they don't require an invitation, health
insurance or means of industrial espionage.
With processing times ranging from one to four weeks per visa,
you will wait one to two months until your passports are back with
you and properly visa'ed by everyone.
Tickets, please
Purchasing tickets in advance, but not through a travel agent,
is turning out to be rather complicated. As you can not book train
tickets with RZD, the Russian rail company, more than 45 days in
advance, you end up with nice circular dependencies. We could pay a
premium for faster processing of our visas and buy via travel
agencies which sell train tickets from their special contingents,
but that's kinda boring, innit?
Also, rzd.ru offers Russian order forms, only. With the help of
Google translate, ##russian on irc.freenode.net, and a lot of
guess-work, we were able to hammer out the connections from Moscow
to Novosibirsk and from there on to Irkutsk.
Yet, it's quite a different experience not to not be able to
fall back to English. No matter where we went in the past, English
was the lingua franca, at least to some extent. That's not the case
in any of our three intended destinations so those phrase books
will get used a lot, I suspect...
We are still not sure if the 4-people cabins in second class
have a door, let alone one that can be locked, but we decided that
this is not too much of an issue. Generally speaking, people are
nice and there are train attendants so crime should not be an
issue. And even if things do disappear, as long as we stay healthy
and I still have one of my several copies of all photos I will
take, I will be reasonably happy.
As to getting from Irkutsk to Ulan Bator... even a Russian
travel agent we contacted claimed you can only purchase tickets on
site, not online. From Ulan Bator to Beijing, it's a different
booking system. And from Beijing to Shanghai, it's yet another
one.
This is the most fragmented booking process we ever went
through. Other than a few moments of stress and frustration, the
hunting for information, cross-referencing and having the
occasional eureka moment is tons of fun, though; no complaints
here.
When in Rome...
According to Lonely Planet, the Trans-Siberian is more or less
one large picnic where everyone shares whatever they have with them
with everyone else. I poked a few Russians about what typically
German food they like and they came up with Frankfurters, mustard,
and beer. Guess that's what we will be stuffing our backpack with
once everything else is packed. And
snuff; apparently it's
common courtesy to offer your snuff to other men you meet in
Mongolia and then snuff from their bottle. When in Rome... German
snuff tends to be mixed with menthol, I suspect that will raise
some eyebrows ;) No idea if there is any non-obvious social grease
to bring to China; still working on that.
Initially, we wanted to tour Mongolia's main attractions, but we
would either have to sit in a car for days on end or go by plane.
Driving for days in between a solid week(!) spent on trains is not
very appealing and neither is breaking our personal ground travel
record by
cheating flying.
Thus, we decided to take the eco-tourism route: After a two-hour
orientation course in Mongolian behaviour and manners, we will
travel a few hundred kilometers by public bus, be picked up by a
local, driven out into the outback and ride from
ger to ger by camel and
horse before returning to Ulan Bator by bus. The stays at the gers
are immersive, if short; we will live with the families, help them
do their daily chores, and visit local places of interest in
between. Oddly enough, I am looking to forward to the bus ride even
more than to the gers. At the gers, at least one person is able to
speak basic English. Not so with the local bus. People on the
various trains will be used to strangers, as are the families at
the gers. People on the bus are, most likely, not. Communicating
with hand, foot, phrasebook, and a smile will, hopefully, be a
lasting experience.
If time permits, we will try to visit
kiva.org borrowers while in Ulan Bator;
this is something we never had a chance to do before and it's been
on the bucket list for some time, now.
As an aside, the local agent in Mongolia asked us if our
sleeping bags are rated down to -26 degrees Celsius. I do hope he
was joking...
On the privileges of living in a first-world country...
Travelling by horse means travelling light. Not a problem for us
as we pack light by default and still manage to bring everything
from Swiss Tool to water bottles, zip ties, medkit, and everything
in between.
Still, there's one major thing I have been taking for granted
all my life: electricity. Being without any source of power for
four to five days is... challenging. Even more so as every single
gadget I rely on uses a different type of battery. Flashlight:
CR123A and AA; GPS: Ni-MH AA rechargeables and Lithium AAA
primaries respectively; Laptop, cameras, cell phone, ebook reader,
Nintendo DS and MP3 player: proprietary. I am starting to truly
understand why NATO has a hard rule of allowing AA-powered devices,
only; planning spares is a pain. Obviously, I am focusing on
flashlights, GPS, and, above all, cameras. Battery grips with AA
adapters to the rescue!
Another even more unsettling realization came when I asked if it
would be possible to have
boodog
(vegetarians/vegans: don't click). Mongolians do not usually
prepare boodog in spring as the animals which survived the harsh
winter need to fatten and breed before being killed for food. All
my life, I have never even once considered the remote possibility
of not being able to slaughter domesticated animals due to outside
constraints. Mongolian nomads
need their animals. This is
not about wanting to do things one way or another; this is about
survival. Quite fascinating, and humbling, to think about.
I am incredibly privileged and, as you are reading this, so are
you.
An exercise for the reader
If you have any information regarding:
- Good places to see in and around Novosibirsk in one day
- Social grease and tips, especially regarding China
- Getting from Irkutsk to Ulan Bator
- Reliable solar chargers for Ni-MH AA batteries
- Interesting things I didn't mention in this post
please let me know. As usual, but just a little bit more than
usual, comments
are appreciated.